A revista da mulher na era digital

Moda & Beleza

Os looks, as tendências, truques e dicas. Aqui na Persona Mulher!

Moda & Beleza

E o verão chegou

Conheça a evolução do biquíni. Considerado uma verdadeira explosão, o biquíni quebrou tabus e foi um dos símbolos da libertação das mulheres, tendo como cenário principal as areias cariocas.

No século XIX, as mulheres passaram a desfrutar dos prazeres dos banhos de sol e mar. Foi quando a moda praia passou a ser mais solta e atraente, com os tornozelos a mostra, os braços desnudos até o cotovelo e a gola marujo. No começo do século XX, as praias passaram a ser uma opção de lazer para todos. Nesse novo contexto, as mulheres começaram a ousar e a escandalizar. Em 1901, o traje de banho era formado por uma calça escondida debaixo de um vestido curto. Uma década mais tarde, em 1911, surgiu o maiô inteiro, sem mangas, com discreto decote e saia até os joelhos. Durante a Primeira Guerra Mundial, as mulheres começaram a trabalhar e adotaram novos costumes. Elas se libertaram dos espartilhos e das anáguas, cortaram os cabelos, subiram a altura das saias, adotaram meias-calças menos opacas e mais da cor da pele e, por fim, mudaram também os trajes de banho. Foi quando surgiu o maiô de nylon, que afinava a cintura e realçava os quadris e o corpo feminino em geral. As costas e o estômago foram revelados somente na década de 1930. Já nos anos 1940, apareceram as primeiras duas peças – short e blusa de crepe da China.

Mas foi em 1946 que a verdadeira revolução ocorreu. Enquanto testes nucleares eram realizados pelo governo norte-americano no Atol do Bikini, ao sul do Pacífico, o estilista francês Louis Réard apresentou ao mundo a sua nova criação: o Biquíni. Considerado um escândalo para a sociedade da época, nenhuma modelo quis participar da sua divulgação. A missão coube a stripper Micheline Bernardini que usou o primeiro modelo de algodão, com estampa de recortes de jornais. As duas peças de tecido maleável chegavam para substituir os incômodos maiôs de lã, que deixavam o corpo quase que totalmente encoberto.  Mas a criação de Réard foi um fracasso e o modelo original, tão minúsculo quanto os atuais, foi substituído por um modelo mais conservador composto por duas peças, cuja parte de baixo cobria o umbigo.

No Brasil, a primeira vez que uma mulher usou o biquíni foi em 1948, no Rio de Janeiro pela modelo alemã Miriam Etz. Até então, o traje era adotado apenas pelas vedetes do teatro rebolado, como Carmem Verônica, Norma Tamar, Elvira Pagã e Virgínia Lane que juntavam multidões nas areias de Copacabana em frente ao Copacabana Palace, no Rio de Janeiro. Somente dez anos depois, o veto ao biquíni foi banido na Europa e ele passou a ser imortalizado na figura da atriz francesa Brigitte Bardot, que no auge da sua juventude, imortalizou a criação ao aparecer em uma cena num barco, no filme “A moça sem véu”, de 1952. Em 1961, o então presidente Jânio Quadros proibiu o uso do traje. O banimento teve efeito contrário: muitas mulheres decidiram aderir à sensualidade do biquíni, como forma de contestação. Foi nesse cenário que surgiu Helô Pinheiro, em 1962, com o modelo comportado que chamou a atenção de Tom Jobim e Vinicius de Moraes e deu origem à canção Garota de Ipanema. Outra figura expressiva foi da atriz Leila Diniz, que, grávida de sete meses, usou um modelo minúsculo, apostando no livre arbítrio e se tornou símbolo da liberação feminina. De lá para cá, muitas musas surgiram nesse universo descompromissado.

Mas foi no início dos anos 1970, que um novo modelo de biquíni brasileiro, ainda menor, surgiu para mudar o cenário e conquistar o mundo: a famosa tanga, uma atitude tipicamente carioca, cuja musa era a modelo Rose di Primo. A partir de então as praias cariocas foram invadidas pela criatividade dos brasileiros. O biquíni passou por diversas transformações estruturais: fio dental, asa-delta (que definia a cintura feminina), enroladinho nas laterais, com lacinhos, adesivos que cobriam os seios e o famoso cortininha foram algumas versões lançadas por famosas, como Monique Evans, adepta do fio dental e do topless.

Com o fim da Guerra Fria, nos anos 1990, houve a consolidação da democracia e a popularização da Internet. Assim, a moda praia se tornou cult e passou a ocupar um espaço ainda maior na moda. A partir daí, a tecnologia invadiu as confecções de biquíni no mundo todo e agregou novos detalhes às peças, como aplicação de drapeados, estampas mais elaboradas e transparências, além de tecidos mais resistentes e apropriados para o mar. Nessa época, surgiram também os acessórios. Uma imensa diversidade de produtos passou a fazer parte dos trajes de banho, como a saída de praia, as sacolas coloridas, os chinelos, óculos, chapéus, cangas e toalhas. No século XIX, as marcas nacionais se solidificaram aqui e no exterior, apostando cada vez mais em tecnologia nos tecidos, nas estampas e nas modelagens. Com mais de sete mil quilômetros de praia e um clima propício, o Brasil se tornou referência nesse tipo de traje e lança anualmente novas tendências, exportadas para o mundo todo.

Fonte: Redação Persona Mulher

 

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  563. I like to get my inspiration from really meaningful phrases said by truly great people like “Philosophers have hitherto only interpreted the world in various ways; the point, however, is to change it”, do you know where I can find thematic compil

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  592. I like to get my inspiration from really meaningful phrases said by truly great people like “Science is what you know. Philosophy is what you don’t know”, do you know where I can find thematic compiltaions of those?

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  614. I like to get my inspiration from really meaningful phrases said by truly great people like “A little philosophy inclineth man’s mind to atheism; but depth in philosophy bringeth men’s minds about to religion”, do you know where I can find them

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